Let me say from the start, speaking as someone more or less ignorant on the importance of the island, and having no permanent ties to Korea or Japan, I really don’t see the big deal. Two years ago, when I ended my Japanese residency and briefly returned to Dallas, Texas, I was driving through Koreatown and came across this billboard:

Dokdo Island? Didn’t look that big in the photograph. And why distribute such propaganda in the middle of Texas? A quick internet such was all I needed to get the basics. Dokdo is an island in the East Sea, sandwiched between the Ulleung Island of Korea and the Oki Islands of Japan. As you can tell from the picture, it’s not much to look at: two main islets and 35 small rocks, less than a quarter square kilometer area. Two Korean citizens permanently reside on this chunk of “paradise”, but other than their presence, there’s not a lot going on.

Let me come back to the history surrounding this territory dispute in a moment. For now, let me just say I’ve never a country more blindly determined to stake its claim to a seemingly worthless island (rich fishing waters aside). It’s mind boggling:

- If billboards like that exist in Texas, they could be all over the world. There are absurdly large Korean communities outside Korea, all apparently dedicated to telling the natives Dokdo is theirs.

- In 2005, Japan announced a Takeshima Day holiday in Shimane-ken. Koreans responded by protesting, cutting of their fingers, and setting themselves on fire.

- I’ve seen examples of this in food. There’s a Dokdo sushi restaurant in Austin and Dallas, and a Dokdo brand name water in Korea:

“Dokdo… oooh, it must be Korean territory! I ate the sushi at a Dokdo restaurant and it was so good! The Japanese don’t have a Dokdo restaurant!” [author's note: as far as I know]

And those are just a few examples.

You know what? I’m not going to get into the history of this dispute. Japan has a point. Korea has a point. I’m not going to be the one to resolve anything, or tell you anything you couldn’t find with Google and a few minutes. In fact, it’s probably more likely if I did take a strong stance, someone would track me down and tell me off in person… or worse. Instead, I’ll give you this quote from the Dokdo Island is Korean Territory Facebook group:

“We do all know that it is only a rock. But we are just trying to aware Japan trying to invade us. Daema Island was ours too but they took it. They always trying to take our land…think about it! Do you want to live in a land which shakes all the time? It’s about the history. They’ve been invading us way too many times…sooooo many times!!!! That’s why guys!!! I’m not a person who always says “Dokdo is our land” and marching… I hate doing that stuff. But I know the fact. It’s more complicated than you guys think…. it’s about the territory issue.”

That’s the one thing I do agree with; it’s not so much strategic importance or the value of the land or surrounding water, it’s just the fact Koreans don’t want the Japanese to take something they consider to be theirs. Unlike the commenter above, though… I don’t think the fact Japan is prone to earthquakes has anything to do with it. When I blogged about the aforementioned sign on Keeping Pace in Japan, it didn’t take more than an hour or so before a Korean left an unsavory comment; once he realized I wasn’t stating the island belonged to Japan, I read this:

“Sorry for my previous post…..
I thought you are talking about DokDo is belong to Japan….

Sorry about that again….”

So, let the comments fly. I’m curious to hear other perspectives on this, Korean, expat, and outsider. If you’re in country and would like to visit Dokdo, ferries depart Pohang, Hupo, and Donghae for Ulleung Island at 10:00 AM, additional ones in the afternoon. From there, you need to submit an application to walk on the disputed island. It isn’t always possible to dock with turbulent waters, but there are also boats that just pull up for photo ops. Come to think of it, Korea probably gets quite a bit of Won out of tourism to Dokdo.

More Information

Wikipedia on the Liancourt Rocks

The Territorial Dispute Over Dokdo

Dokdo, Korean Island: Proofs & Facts

Dokdo Takeshima Island

I learned of the Baegam Hot Springs Festival two weeks before, when I saw the poster advertised in front of the central bus terminal. Fate just has a way for me to stumble across these things. I am convinced I would know the location of a hot springs in the middle of Cleveland if I traveled there.

Baegam was appealing to me for two reasons: the prospect of seeing a Korean festival and enjoying a sulfuric bath. The festival claimed to have a Dr. Fish bath (닥터피쉬) set up on site, but I didn’t see anything on Sunday. A shame. Your feet just never feel clean unless some fish predisposed to devouring dead flesh have their way with them. Sad, but true.

Baegam is a pretty cozy town, tucked in a valley and not very spread out. The hot springs is easily the biggest building. But before I caught sight of it, the bus dropped me off practically in the middle of the dancing audience. I honestly don’t know what it is about dancing that makes slutty clothing socially acceptable; the same goes for the exploitation of little girls… they can’t like being dressed that way, can they?

In addition to the main stage, the festival brought out a ₩1,000 market and a few street vendors. The “hello”s were flying out of the mouths of each and every child, as I was the only foreigner in attendance.

Baegam Hot Springs

The hot springs is a straight shot from the bus station; just walk out the door and stick to that direction for 300 meters. You should find it without incident. Lucky for me, the price was only ₩3,000 with the festival (normally ₩6,000). The attendant’s English was quite good.

All in all, I recommend Baegam, but I don’t think it’s worth a trip in and of itself. Compared to the commercial feel and crowds of Deokgu, Baegam is cozier, and less intimidating. Despite it’s size, It’s something I would expect as a neighborhood jimjilbang rather than a nationally-promoted treasure.

Don’t get me wrong; it’s a sweet place to soak. But I didn’t smell the sulfur. The water was only about 42.5 degrees Celsius; Deokgu’s bath reaches 44. The setting is a bit more rustic, with stones stacked up and not a hint of a crowd. Last week, an English teacher from a nearby town asked me why I was so fond of using hot springs in the middle of a hot summer (very “Asian”, I guess). The answer is simple; a hot soak leaves your pores open, and hot weather helps keep that going once you get out of the water.

Getting there

Take the long-distance bus from the north or south to Pyeonghae. It’s about ₩3,700 from Uljin. From Pyeonghae, take a taxi if the wait for the bus is too long; otherwise, you can catch the local for ₩1,700.

Official website

This sign appears outside of the main bus station in Bugu… I honestly have no idea what the police are trying to tell me in English. Any experience with them will be less than pleasant?

While waiting for my regular bus to Deokgu Hot Springs, I was sitting, writing notes on the Korean language, and minding my own business in the corner. An old Korean woman was on the couch across the room. After a minute or so, she stood up, approached, and, with an almost pitying look on her face, muttered something to me in Korean and handed me a pamphlet. I took it, and, without a word, she sat back down. I was rather puzzled, until I took a quick glance and discovered that this literary marvel was produced by Watchtower: Jehovah’s witnesses.

This was certainly the most off-handed approach I’ve ever experienced in Evangelicals and JWs trying to indoctrinate me. Why would she even consider me? As a westerner, I’m far more likely to be Christian than a Korean (only 25%). Part of me just wanted to step in front of her, tear up her propaganda, and eloquently expose the flaw in her techniques. But, with my limited language skills and my desire to avoid any confrontation, I think it will be easier to simply wear my Buddha pendant everywhere.

I’ve been thinking more about just how easy it is for me to adapt to a foreign environment. Living in Japan was my first serious attempt; naturally, there were errors, fears, and differences with my time in Korea. Let’s look at some of those:

First Week

Japan: June 2006. I spent my first days in the AEON training center in Okayama. Internet access was limited to international centers. I went out to karaoke a few times that week. There was a little language training: by the end, I could say “hello”, “thank you”, “my name is…”, and my telephone number. Our training consisted of long hours, and pounding the AEON method into our brains; I was nervous about teaching, and thought it would take me too much time to prepare lessons. I wasn’t confident enough to eat in restaurants by myself; I usually stuck to a bento box for lunch, which was also how I got my listening practice (”would you like it heated up?”) Even picked up Dr. Peppers in the import store.

Korea: Not as rough a transition period as I arrived in Seoul; the brand names were familiar, the rules similar. I wasn’t mystified by the currency. In short, I wasn’t afraid. I knew how to find places; I knew that Family Mart would have food if I wasn’t ready to try restaurants. I didn’t eat out alone anytime this week, but I did manage to hop a bus and make my way over to Deokgu Hot Springs… within one week. Language skills consist of “hello” and not much else. Medical exam and alien registration in the mornings before work. I didn’t fear the kids that first lesson; in fact, I pretty much just stepped in and continued on as though Ben (outgoing teacher) had never left. I still have questions and want information about bus times and fares, gym access, and my surroundings, but the internet is available, and I know how to insert foreign characters now.

Second Week

Japan: Relocated to Higashi-Hiroshima to work at my school. First time taking the shinkansen, and by myself at that; I had no clue how easy it would be to navigate the trains. Had a welcome dinner for me, a goodbye dinner for Jason, the departing teacher, and typical dealings with bureaucracy: my gaijin card. I didn’t know anything about my contract, about my rights as a foreign resident. I was only 35 minutes away from Hiroshima by local train, but I didn’t leave my town just yet. There was a supermarket next to my apartment. I studied Japanese every night from the Lonely Planet phrasebook. No internet access, and I didn’t know where I could find a cafe. Dinner was ready-to-eat meals from Fuji Grand and bento boxes from 7-11.

Korea: I’ve already discovered two good places to run and fumbled my way into the Energy Farm gym; in fairness, I bought tickets for bowling and a kid’s pool fare before correctly purchasing a day pass. Things aren’t difficult. I don’t fear what the day will bring when I wake up. Lessons require little prep time, not only because they’re easy, but because I have experience; I can deal with kids. I’ve already made weekend plans to go hiking and see Uljin. In many ways, the setup is similar to Saijo – close to a larger city, but not lacking for any amenities like a gym, store, and friendly people. I haven’t been practicing my Korean at all, but I am familiarizing myself with the city names and store front signs.

Third Week

Japan: Signing up for the gym was the first time I realized I needed to know the katakana letters for my name (ターナーライト); fortunately, the attendant had a good ear and transcribed it correctly on my membership card. I didn’t even bother to double check this when filling out paperwork for my bank account and cell phone; I just looked at the letters I had written in language journal and copied them. A few notable events: I had to deal with the cleaners for my work shirts, and attempt to have my suit pants hemmed. A student offered to tutor me in Japanese for free; I accepted, but after the appointment, realized that she was one to look upon everything I did as a foreigner to be amazing. If I had kept meeting with her, I might start to doubt my own abilities. I was venturing farther and farther from my apartment – searching back alleys, side streets, looking for restaurants and supermarkets, places to run – but still had not stepped on a train or a bus. My blog entries (found the international center) were shallow and based on gaijin mentality. Keep in mind, hot springs weren’t part of my world in Saijo; I wouldn’t take a soak for eight months.

Korea: Where I am today. I spend the first half of the day getting a very specific discount card from Deokgu; as a resident of Bugu, I only have to pay 4500 Won. I can’t write any Korean, but I am starting to write down the phrases I need to begin conversations. Through the power of Couchsurfing, I found two Australian expats in Juk-Byeon, south of Bugu, and went over to their place for a movie night with two American teachers. I’m running on the beach. I tried one restaurant, but it was a copout: English menu and too comfortable (AC, too clean). I’ve already begun my search for a set of slippers that will fit me, something I doubt I would have considered at AEON (shoes are allowed in the school). I’m not letting school preoccupy my time. I know ways to connect to other travelers. I’m just… comfortable. As soon as this apartment is clean.

In any case, after 5+ signatures and writing my full name in Roman characters, I can start to see the value in having a dojong (name stamp, 도장). I didn’t register one in Japan until well into my 2nd year, but even an unregistered chop can be used for common transactions, accepting packages, signing up for point cards, etc.

Regardless, I received my passbook and check card, and asked my boss about previous teachers’ experience signing up – did they use Korean characters, in addition to their “legal” English names? Turns out, unlike in Japan where your katakana name (language used for foreign terms) is written on your ARC, passbook, and most other documents, no such duality is required in Korea. Foreign residents certainly can get a chop with all Korean characters, but it’s more for show; I’d imagine you wouldn’t legally need anything like that until you naturalize.

While these forms were being processed, I asked a few more questions: if this was true for foreigners, what about Koreans? What do they generally use for a dojong?

1. Hangul dojong. Generally the cheaply made one. More widely used. About 1000 Won for a plastic one, 5000 for better plastic, 10000 for wood.

2. Hanja dojong. Chinese characters. These name chops are the officially registered ones with the government, and are generally made out of stone or high quality wood. They only come out as-needed. About 50,000 Won.

Soon enough, I was asked to enter my passcode, and promptly received a shiny bankcard and crisp passbook. Luckily for me, there was a name chop designer next to the bank (had thought they just made keys until recently), so I decided to have one quickly engraved. The owner pulled up several different options of scripts on his computer, and I chose one that resembled handwritten, yet not so loopy. I’ve been told foreigners can find those who are willing to engrave Roman and Korean characters on the same stamp, but that wasn’t the case here.

First setback – I deposited all my cash into my new account, and the stamp cost 10,000 Won. I rushed back into the bank to use the ATM for the very first time, only to have my pin number rejected… ugh. Somehow, somehow, my boss’ pin number was imprinted onto my card. Took a few minutes to straighten that paperwork, whereupon I was able to navigate the buttons on the ATM (do you know how long it took me to learn the Japanese for “withdrawal”?) and get 10,000 Won back. Rushed over to the shop, and now I have this beauty:

There’s a bit of a back story to this, as my boss was explaining his connection to the owner of the key/dojong shop. About ten years ago, when he first moved here from Seoul, he was in the habit of ordering things online rather than taking advantage of local businesses. The key guy noticed he had made a rather expensive purchase (electronic door locks) and chastised him for it. I guess that debate isn’t limited to anyone’s borders. But, with the gradual exchange of fruits and vegetables from each other’s farms, and the occasional soju outing, they’re now friends. In fact, my boss recently had him replace the locks on the school.

I’ll be writing about my students and some teaching stories sometime this week. Stay tuned.

Just like the Japanese, Koreans enjoy two types of insurance and pension plans: the national plan, which covers all citizens by default, and the employee plan, which is only available for companies that employ five or more workers. As an employee of a small hagwon (학원), I only qualify for the national plan. Unfortunately, since December 2008, foreigners are now required to be residents for at least three months before qualifying for health insurance. This means I’m not covered until mid-November. Not good. If you’d like more information, there’s an English language help line: 02-390-2000.

Seat Belts

Apparently only the front seat passengers are legally obligated to fasten their seat belts. Those in the rear, including young children who should be in car seats, are free to bounce around all they like.

Tap Water

I’ve been curious about this for a while. The teacher I replaced just filled up a few water jugs from the water purifier at the school to cut down costs. A 1-liter bottle only costs about 1USD here, but what about the tap water? I’m on the east coast, after all; shouldn’t that make a difference in the purification process? Everyone really raves about just how clean the water is here, from the transparency of the ocean to the water in the pipes.

Lonely Planet and Moon Handbooks suggest that travelers buy bottled water. Even though I’m in the countryside and nothing will probably ever come from drinking tap water, I’m going to play on the safe side. Just a personal decision. I’ve talked with other residents, including my boss, and it’s a sizable splint; many are afraid of the bacteria in tap water, but they admit they drink it occasionally.

Uljin

Uljin is famous for four things: the snow crab festival, its unique mushrooms, the Energy Farm (otherwise known as the nuclear power plant), and Deokgu hot springs. Good news! If you’re a resident of Uljin, you get a discount at the springs; those suckers can go ahead and pay 6000 Won/soak, I’m going to stick with 4500.

On Teaching English

I’ll report on the particulars here later. My boss is a ping-pong fiend, and proud of it, spending about 300,000 Won (~300USD) on a paddle imported from Japan.

The People of Uljin

They’re a good group. Certainly no racists, as far as I can see. I did have a bit of a confrontation the other day that left me confused. Turns out, I was taking the last bus south for the day, and the ticket taker and store attendant both tried to warn me I wouldn’t be able to get back to Bugu that night. I know they were just trying to help, but they doubted my abilities, and made us all uncomfortable.

Ordering Online

I haven’t had any problems getting Amazon.com packages delivered. Do people in Seoul rely a lot on online purchases as well? Because from where I stand, it seems that is the major form of shopping in Korea. Check these sites out:

http://english.gmarket.co.kr
http://weagookinmall.com
http://
www.ezshopkorea.com

http://www.expatexpress.com

http://www.auction.co.kr

So what’s the plan?

September 18th
Leave Bugu by bus and head to Busan (부산), the second largest city in Korea. Should take about five hours and 21,900 Won. Stay in the city for two days enjoying the sights and chilling with a Couchsurfer.

September 20th
Take the Beetle JR Kyushu Jet Ferry to Hakata. I can’t recall whether there’s a ¥3000 fee for a visa on arrival. Regardless, clearing customs and immigration shouldn’t be that difficult, and I’ve booked my favorite capsule hotel. I’m thinking late night ramen and partying in Tenjin.

September 21st
Shinkansen train all the way to Shizuoka. I have a Couchsurfer waiting.

September 22nd
Enjoy the hospitality of Ryokan Funamisou in Nikko in exchange for writing a review. Japanese food and hot springs… ahhh.

September 23rd
I have a similar arrangement with Ryokan Kiritani Hakoneso in Hakone.

September 24th
Head back to Fukuoka, possibly making a few stops en route to check out my old place, maybe see who’s around Hiroshima.

September 25th
Return to Busan by ferry. Excursion to Japan is over.

Transportation

There are several ferries running between Korea and Japan.

Beetle JR Kysuhu Ferry is probably your best option. Two hours, fifty-five minutes on a high speed jetfoil, and the price is reasonable. One thing I would add: BOOK THIS FERRY IN KOREA. It costs significantly more to buy tickets in Japan, especially if you’re on a Korean salary.

To that end, there’s just one website you need to look at for reservations: Miraejet Co. It is difficult to navigate if you don’t read Korean, but the benefits far outweigh any inconvenience. If you book in Japan with JR Beetle, the fare is ¥26,000 (~$304)… though there are discounts available. In Korea, with an internet booking, the price is a mere 190,000 Won (~$160), which must be paid in advance by credit card or bank account transfer; otherwise, it rises to 230,000 Won at the ticket office.

The Camilla Ferry is only 171,000 Won roundtrip with no reservations required for a discount, but it takes 7.5 hours for the overnight ferry (10:30 PM to 6:00 AM) and 5.5 hours for the daytime (12:30 PM to 6:00 PM), and doesn’t run as regularly. When you consider the difference between the Camilla and Beetle is only 19,000 Won (~$16), it’s worth the effort to just book the jetfoil in advance.

Tsushima (対馬)

If you want to walk on Japanese soil, but don’t feel like taking the ferry all the way to Kyushu, Tsushima is another option. This island is situated precisely between Korea and Japan, and, like most Japanese islands… doesn’t have too much excitement. Still, if you’re looking for a good place to sea kayak, hike, or catch a glimpse of the rare Tsushima Leopard Cat, by all means, check it out. I’ll stop by before I end my Korean residency.

In other news…
I was just informed by my boss that the National Health Insurance Corporation will not cover me for my first three months of residency. Apparently, Korea had a problem with foreigners accepting jobs, getting coverage, going to the doctor for expensive treatments, then bailing on everything. I’m still researching the law, but does anyone know this to be true?

A lot of roofs are bright orange or blue in Korea because:

“During the days of the yangban, only the very wealthy were allowed to have a blue tile roof, to signal their status in life. This is why [during the New Village Movement] many of the farmers chose to paint their slate roofs blue.”
Source: http://seoullife.net/2007/04/09/village-people/

I know it’s better in the long run to have such a fountain of information available, but it hurts cultural immersion. I probably would be fluent in Japanese had I not had an English language source like the internet during my two years abroad. And with the spread of information, the lines between countries become even more skewed… I say this, having heard Poker Face blasting from an SVU in the middle of Uljin.

So what are my impressions thus far? The quality of life in Korea is pretty in line with that of Japan:

- Family Mart convenience stores are around, but obento (haven’t learned the Korean name yet) aren’t as popular. They have them, featuring rice, meat, and kimchi, but the cashier doesn’t instinctively ask if you’d like it heated up as she would in Japan, and the selection isn’t as good.

- I’m incredibly biased on bathhouses, sento in Japan and jimjilbang (찜질방) in Korea, but there are some differences worth noting. In Korea, jimjilbang are just as common, but also used for cheap lodging. Prices are comparable: 4500 Won in Korea, 360 Yen in Japan (just for a bath). In addition, Koreans seem to have no problem with others using a hand scrubber near the baths.

- In terms of general “feel”, I’d say Japan is generally more orderly and cleaner… not that it’s that noticeable.

- Transportation is just as easy, but buses can stop anywhere en route. By the same token, anyone can hail a bus from anywhere en route.

- Public restrooms are just as common, but I’d take care to bring your own toilet paper.

- The major car brands in Korea are Kia and Hyundai. But believe me, if Samsung could develop a car, they would.

In both Bugu and Uljin, there is an open market every five days. Mostly fish and fruit. As my negotiating tactics are kind of being reinvented at this point, I’ll stick to the only supermarket in the area, Home Mart.

I’m still looking for a decent beach on which to go barefoot running; Uljin’s was too rocky. The best prospective is Juk-byeon, which seems to stretch for quite a ways. Just a short bus ride from Bugu.

On a more serious note, I’m very selfish to have come back out to Asia. Oh sure, I can claim I just wanted to satisfy my travel demons, but in reality, it’s more of an inflated ego. I’m tall here. I’m seen as more attractive. I stand out… blessing and a curse there. It hasn’t even been two weeks, and already a bystander told me I looked like “talent”, meaning a Hollywood celebrity. I can deflect such flattery, but that doesn’t mean I get tired of hearing it; it’s part of the reason some who live in Asia for years can’t seem to force themselves to return “home”. They don’t know how to cope with being normal again. I can’t really blame them.

I’m definitely tiptoeing around my current environment until I feel at ease. Reminds me of when I relocated to Higashi-Hiroshima; it took me weeks of just hanging out in my apartment after hours and on weekends before I felt like taking the train into Hiroshima City. When I finally did approach Saijo Station for the first time, I didn’t get on the rapid train (only saves you three minutes) because I thought I might be charged extra. What can I say? I didn’t know the train system, I didn’t know the rules. I’m learning the rules in Korea day by day.

Unlike in Japan, where you enter a bus, take a ticket, and pay the far at departure, you pay in advance here, and there are no rules when it comes to getting on and off.

Fried chicken is incredibly popular here. Not that it isn’t stateside, but the majority of restaurants seem to have chicken platters. I can’t imagine how KFC maintains a presence here, as their cuisine is… disgusting.

Brand name cosmetics and toiletries are more prevalent in Korea than they are in Japan. I doubt I’ll find an import store outside of the major cities (Daegu, Seoul, Busan), but some food products and soaps I had to make an effort to find in Nippon are readily available in Family Marts over here. The same is true of clothing; I’m sure you can find Adidas and Nike stores in Tokyo and Osaka, but aside from them, it’s really Japanese product. Over here, even a small community like Uljin is bustling with brand name clothing.

Tomorrow, I think I’m going to try and get an early start by hiking the trail I mentioned near Deokgu. Don’t know how long it’ll take, but I can guarantee a long soak when I finish.

On Bugu-ri

A pretty small town, I have to admit. My apartment building houses women who I believe work in the sex trade; the town is basically designed to cater to the nuclear power plant workers and, as such, has a large number of bars and massage parlors. I can’t be sure of this as I haven’t seen anything firsthand.

The beaches aren’t the prettiest, but they do exist. I would consider running along them in the morning, but the sand just isn’t firm enough. In addition, large rocks would interrupt me every few hundred feet.

The biggest nuisance is a motorcycle which passes through each and every street and alley 1-2 times/week to spray insecticide into the air – chili peppers grow everywhere. I can’t imagine that would be healthy to breathe.

On Living In Korea So Far

Rooftops tend to be blue. When you see one large building in a city, chances are there are identical ones in the vicinity.

I have absolutely no trouble using my Bank of America VISA card, but it is difficult to locate an ATM which accepts foreign accounts. Citibank has branches in most major cities, and I’ve heard Kookmin Bank works as well.

I have successfully ordered beef, pork, and chicken from the butcher. Maybe it’s just because I live in a small town, but I haven’t seen too many ready to eat prepackaged meals like bento boxes (a few at Family Mart), or plastic-wrapped servings of meat for customers to buy. I’m able to order pork and beef as needed, but if I want chicken… well, you gotta take the whole bird.

Looking Inward

It’s amazing just how unfazed I am at living in a different country. I want the excitement all over again, but that wonder I felt when I disembarked in Osaka just doesn’t exist anymore. I’m just as comfortable here as I am in Haiti, in Santa Monica, in Austin, in Cooper Landing, Alaska. It’s all one big travel blob to me. Depressing, in a way. But at least I can manage.

Like many countries, Korea doesn’t make a habit of wasting resources. Air conditioners function by remote control, and are turned off as needed. Paying for gas is required when using hot water and heating the floor. Dryers aren’t too common; people save money by letting clothes air dry.

During Chuseok (추석) holiday, I should return to Japan via ferry. I’m going to get sick eating that much ramen…

The east coast of Korea doesn’t receive too much in the way of tourism. Sure, we have the Uljin Snow Crab Festival, but between Ulsan in the south, and Gangneung up north… you have to make an extra effort to find everyday comforts. Such an endeavor I was willing to undertake to enjoy Deokgu Hot Springs (호텔덕구온천). Just head about 10 km west of the famous Bugu nuclear plant and you’ll find a small community of bathhouses… and not much else; in fact, I think they outnumber the homes.

Getting In

Be aware, you have your choice of just using the public bath, or getting a ticket to Spa World. Peak season is more expensive. It’s unlikely the cashier will speak English, but I was lucky enough to get a few words across. In fact, I had to back off and study after my first attempt seemed to convince the lady I wanted a private room (or maybe she just assumed I’d pay for one… not likely). I’ll have to relearn the words for “hot springs only”.

Get your ticket, pass through the turnstile, and follow the stickers on the floor to your respective changing rooms. A full restaurant is available in the lobby, as is an attached karaoke bar. If you need to buy soaps and shampoo, or rent a bathing suit and swim cap for Spa World (required), you can do so on the cheap.

Rules

I have to explain this again? Surely my readers know how to take a proper bath in Asia. No?

Take off your shoes at the entrance. Keep the key with you. Once you enter your locker room, hand your ticket to the attendant and find a locker. Take off ALL your clothes (leave modesty at the door), taking nothing into the bath but your soaps and locker key (though you can take a towel if you wish).

Use the sitting or standing shower to clean thoroughly. Only then can you enter the large baths. But wait! Usually, it’s good behavior to take a bowl and pour some of the water over yourself before entering the bath. At Deokgu, they have special “gourd baths” for this very purpose; do NOT bathe in them – just use the water to rinse yourself.

Baths

Hot bath
My personal choice. 44 degrees Celsius. You want the water to be only a degree or two below scalding. Enough to make you sweat out those toxins.

Warm bath
41 degrees Celsius

Lemon bath
Not a joke. I think the water is infused with Vitamin C. Don’t drink it.

Cold bath
Take a swim

Other facilities

As I mentioned, there is a nightclub and karaoke bar. In the Spa World area, I hear there’s a jacuzzi and waterfall massages. Behind the spa building is a trail leading to a natural sulfuric spring in the woods. I’ll determine whether it’s good for hiking and biking in the near future.

Private rooms are available with baths for three hours at a time. More time can be charged as needed. If you want one for all working hours, it’s 195,000 for a standard room, 330,000 for a ‘presidential suite’.

Access

There is a direct bus from Seoul which departs Dongseoul Bus Terminal at 9:34 AM (about 4 hours). Otherwise, make your way to Bugu-ri or Uljin-gun and catch a local bus for under 2000 Won. They run pretty regularly.

Prices and Hours

Bathing:
₩6,000 during low season
₩7,000 during peak season (7/20 – 8/20, 12/20 – 03/01, holidays)
Open 6 AM – 10 PM

Residents of Uljin and nearby areas can get access for only ₩4,500!

Spa World:
₩10,000 weekdays, open 10 AM – 7 PM
₩15,000 weekends and holidays, open 9 AM – 8 PM (except Saturday, 8 AM)
₩25,000 during peak season

Websites

Deokgu Spa World
Baekam Hot Springs