Archive for the ‘Japan’ Category:
Omakase: My Sushi Go 55 Experience
“We’re just watching you; this is better than Survivor.”
The two men and single woman sitting at the end of the bar to my right had a point, I thought. After all, I had eaten many strange things in my line of travel work – semi-poisonous blowfish, octopus with mayonnaise and fried batter, the smelly durian of Thailand – but had yet to encounter one of the true tests for the seafood connoisseur: the eyeballs. Morishita-san looked at me with anticipation, standing beside the somewhat ignorant trio and probably half expecting me to act like the foreigners she must have read about in Manga, who gag on tako, avoid sushi bars like the plague, and never try to expand their palette when it comes to ordering omakase from a seasoned chef.
Not wanting to disappoint my audience, I raised the chopsticks with my right hand, the small grey dish with my left, and popped in the fish eye without a second to lose. Delicious.
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I didn’t really frequent sushi shops during my years in Japan. For some newbies to the land of the rising sun, this may hardly be surprising. After all, the average “foreigner out of water” tends to stick to comfortable foods, and thinks of raw fish on rice as something exotic reserved for the natives.
When I was living in New Zealand and running on fumes as far as my Japanese experience was concerned, I poured over texts on expats teaching English with the JET Program, which eventually led me to a reference to Trevor Corson, author of The Story of Sushi and quite the authority when it came to obtaining that most coveted of experiences (for sushi connoisseurs, anyway): an authentic Japanese omakase (”please decide for me”) meal from a Japanese sushi chef, with the nigiri packed loosely and the soy sauce tucked away, completely unnecessary for this direction in dining.
So what would you do if you learned of an author whose book you liked? Naturally, you’d Google him, discover his Twitter account, and send him a message letting him know your appreciation of his fine research, and how it has affected your life for the better. This I did. And also, I started eating sushi. Lots of sushi. From Blue Fish in Dallas to Tanuki’s Cave in Auckland, I learned to see the different styles of sushi chefs, notice the quality of the fish they brought in, and determine who could provide the best dining experience for me as a quasi-Japanese eater. Corson was spot on about the most important thing: you can spot a good sushi chef by how clean he keeps his station (no other bits of food getting mixed in with the fish or rice).
But despite everywhere I ate, no place could live up to the promise of what Corson said was available to the average American willing to shell out a few bucks: good Japanese sushi as the chef decides. Enter Little Tokyo, a district in Los Angeles that is probably the closest one can get to Japan without flying into Narita: sushi bars, grocery stores… I understand they even have a few decent hostess bars, though it’s perfectly understandable them not wanting to advertise to the general public (what layman would believe beautiful Japanese girls are only available for conversation?) Combine that with a business trip out west, and I had my solution to the penultimate sushi problem; I would contact Corson for recommendations on the best, most authentic, sushi restaurant run by Japanese in Little Tokyo, have my omakase night, and leave with my stomach swimming with sake (酒) and sake (鮭).
Sushi Go 55 is owned and operated by the Morishita family, who have been running sushi establishments in LA since the 1950’s. Amazing; only ten years after Japanese-Americans were being held in work camps following World War II, some Morishita in Japan was planning to move to the states to start a business. The chef I spoke with at Sushi Go 55 has been in the US for thirty years.
But I digress: THE OMAKASE. I navigated my way through downtown LA to arrive… in what appeared to be a regular shopping mall at the outskirts of Little Tokyo. No mistake; Sushi Go 55 was just two short escalator rides and one noren curtain away. Having never been there or met anyone in person, I responded with my best Japanese to the hostess:
“Morishita-san ga imas ka?”
“Ohhh, she may have gone home for the night. Please wait a moment.”
Ohhh, I sure hope she didn’t. I had had to contact Corson to put me in touch with Eji Morishita, son of the owners, and arrange a time to meet this Tuesday night. If she didn’t show, I would have to explain to the chef exactly what kind of omakase I wanted, and I certainly didn’t trust my fading Japanese skills to that level. Not to mention apologizing to Eji for failing to meet his mother and enjoy the sushi she was offering to arrange. No siree.
No worries, though, as she appeared from the kitchen after only a minute or so. Going through the formal introductions (giving her one of my few remaining genuine meishi), we made small talk about why I wanted such good sushi, and how I was willing to try whatever she would throw my way. Here it is, my experience, dish by dish:
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Sake
Your standard-issue salmon sashimi, although, even in my excited state, I swear this fish was more delicious than any other salmon I had eaten. Merely an appetizer.
Cooked Uni and Mussels
I’ve had uni (sea urchin). I really don’t care for it. It’s still not my favorite, but cooking or searing it makes it far more desirable in my book.
Sashimi Platter: Toro, Maguro, Tai
Ahhh…. toro. The fatty bluefin tuna. The most expensive and delicious fish of them all. Toro is usually listed in sushi restaurants next to the letters “MP”, meaning “market price”. If you have to ask, you won’t want to spend it. Even an order of two toro nigiri can be over $20.
Chawanmushi
An egg dish filled with vegetables. I seldom ate chawanmushi in Japan (or eggs, for that matter), but found this little dish to be surprisingly tasty.
Tamago
Eggs are usually a good test of a sushi chef’s cooking ability; sure, many can cut fish properly, but prepare tamago to the epitome of sweetness and filling? That takes skill.
Hamachi Nigiri
My first stage of nigiri after nigiri began with yellowtail with a dash of salt and seasoned with lemon juice; both accentuated the flavor perfectly.
I wasn’t exactly sure of the proper etiquette between dishes in an omakase order: should I ask for the next dish, or would that make me appear rushed and greedy? Any sushi bar worth its weight will present you with a geta, the wooden platform on which to place ginger and wasabi to use with the piece of sushi. Thereupon the chef will lower dish after dish until you declare “ippai!”
Saba Nigiri
Ahhh, the mackerel. I didn’t know what this was at first, and my stomach was already bulging from the 15+ pieces of delectable fish.
Tai Nigiri
Red snapper with hot mustard.
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I think that brings us back to the eyeballs. Appropriately after such a large serving, I declared I was too full to continue, requested the okanjou, and devoured the palette-cleansing pickled plum. The end of meals in American-based Japanese-run sushi restaurants has always been confusing for me: should I tip? These are Japanese people, therefore tipping is annoying and insulting. But…. these are Japanese people working on American wages, which require tips, so therefore tipping must be welcome. Well, the latter is correct, but I didn’t discover that until Morishita-san “reminded” me with a friendly verbal nudge.
And overall? A great Japanese experience in the heart of Los Angeles. Sushi Go 55 is the way to go. Check out Sai’s review too.
Total Price Tag: $70 + tip
The Pressure to Hear English
I take being surrounded by English speakers for granted. I imagine I’d feel completely liberated in one way if I were to return to Japan and begin my life with the Japanese people, but, in a far more accurate way, I’m slowly forgetting what it’s like to be in the language minority (never mind my white face; that’s a talk for another time).
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Of course I had outings with Americans, Kiwis, English, Aussies, Canadians, even the occasional Jamaican… but 90% of the time, the Japanese language was my sole source of communication with others. I can just imagine my typical evening after AEON hours:
1. Finish my office paperwork and bid coworkers farewell with the customary “otsu kare sama deshita“. Emerge from the building on a cold winter’s night, just opposite a gas station.
2. I might pass a student, a kid, or a random passerby. Perhaps a friendly “konbanwa“.
3. Lawson convenience store for my usual turkey and pasta bento, with a heated bottle of green tea. Do I want it heated? Hai, shite kudasai. Any chopsticks with that? Hai, ippun o kudasai. Arigatou gozaimasu.
4. Finish the walk to my apartment building. I’ll probably catch another tenant in the elevator:
“Ahhh… Kimura-san. Ogenki desu ka?”
(I’m fine, Turner-san. How are you?)
“Genki des yo. Oyasumi nasai.”
Only when I’m back in my cramped 6-tatami mat quarters do I truly relax. After all, the internet is language neutral, though I’m sure most would agree English dominates. And this is a light, carefree evening. Imagine a full day of all Japanese. Now imagine a week. A month. A year. Five years…
There’s more to living abroad than embracing a different culture and being comfortable with your changing environment; the pressure of communicating in a foreign language builds up inside your brain without any realization. After all, you’re in Japan! An amazing, exciting experience! Who wouldn’t trade places with you?
I love Japan and I love traveling, but I get tired. There are long stretches when I wouldn’t wish to be anywhere else on the planet, but there are also plenty of times when I would give my heart and soul to be surrounded by countrymen who understand my words, my upbringing, my way of thinking. How did I combat this in Japan, once I had learned to live well?
GetHiroshima Classifieds and Events
Hiroshima doesn’t exactly have the largest population of foreign residents in Japan, but there is a sizable number… enough to warrant the publication of a online resource for expats: GetHiroshima. Culture salons, 10Ks, Japanese wanting friends… I even got replies for a Texas Hold ‘Em group; we were soon meeting once a month for a nice cash game.
Nightclubs and Bars
I admit it, I went downtown many Saturday nights in effort not to hook up with random Japanese girls, but just to sit at the bar of an Irish pub and listen to background conversations… in English. Call me a language whore.
Blog Searches
By using Google Blogsearch, I was able to find many expats in my general area, and learn a great deal about them and their travel experience. You never know who’s reading.
I followed these same techniques in Kagoshima, and found the prefecture’s JET participants had a decent Facebook page; without that, I never would have ended up volunteering at an orphanage in Aira or cycling all the way around Sakurajima for the first time.
Everyone has their own ways of coping with this pressure of feeling like you’re the only one on the planet. Lost in Translation was such a success for showing this through film. Sometimes you do have to travel halfway around the planet… to come full circle.
Medical Exams in Japan
I’m a little nervous as I sit waiting for the sensei. Did I come to the right office? I even forgot to slip on the lobby slippers once I had removed my street shoes – more out of the thought that they didn’t have slippers my size. The setting is the same, regardless of the country: posters warning “This could happen to you!” or “Take care of yourself!”
Soon enough, however, my name is called and I’m led into the back room with a simple “kochira, kudasai” (this way, please). Just like at home, I leave the room of waiting recipients and march towards the impenetrable curtain: my time has come.
Seeing a doctor, or dealing with anyone in the medical field, can be just as annoying or frustrating in Japan as in any other country. When I was first told that most Japanese companies require a kenkou shindan sho (Heath Examination Form, 健康診断書), I was a little unprepared as to where to go and what to do:
This is required by Japanese law, and is necessary for the company to understand your current state of health. Details of the examination are stated in the ‘Health Examination Guide’（健康診断についてのご案内).
日本の法律では、従業員の安全衛生のために、「雇い入れ時検診」を実施することが義務付けられています。日本語では、「けんこうしんだんしょ」といいます。あなたの最近の健康状態を把握するためのものです。検査項目、詳細は別紙「健康診断についてのご案内」をご参照ください。
Quickly consulting my foreign resident’s guide (which you should have received once you registered at the local government office), I found a listing of doctors with various specialties, but no general practitioners. I had heard doctors were much more specialized in Japan, from your foot doctor, to your “arm aches every other Saturday doctor”. Going with convenience rather than certainty, I chose a doctor dealing with internal medicine, who happened to speak both Chinese and English. And lucky for me, his office was in the shopping area two minutes from my apartment.
I did call ahead, and was told that the kenkou shindan sho would be no problem (though I got the impression this particular doctor wasn’t asked to do such basic examination procedures so often).
Step one: entering the office. The same procedures as any other Japanese setting: remove your street shoes and don slippers. Approach the counter with a big smile and a nice “ohayou gozaimas!”
Step two: explain exactly what you need today:
Examination of the presence of subjective and objective symptoms (自覚症状及び他覚症状の有無調査)
Examination of height, weight, eyesight and hearing (身長、体重、視力、聴力検査)
Chest X-ray examination, indirect (胸部X線検査、間接撮影)
Blood pressure measurement (血圧測定)
Blood analysis (血液検査)
- Anemia examination (erythrocytometry and hemochromometry) (貧血検査（赤血球数・血色素量）)
- Examination of hepatic function (GOT, GPT, γ-GTP) (肝機能検査)
- Examination of blood lipid levels (total cholesterol level, HDL cholesterol, triglyceride level) (血中脂質検査（総コレストロール・HDLコレストロール・中性脂肪）)
- Examination of blood sugar level (血糖検査）Electrocardiogram
Urine analysis
Step three: wait for your friendly neighborhood doctor. Just like with any expert in his respective field, you should refer to a doctor as “sensei”. Fortunately for me this doctor did speak enough English for us to understand each other. He told me the tests would be no problem, and I should come back tomorrow to pick up the results.
Naturally, I’m not going to give you a blow-by-blow account of a medical examination; it’s exactly the same, with two exceptions as far as I could tell…
Testing the vision in your right and left eyes. Of course, just like at home, I was asked to hit a tape mark on the floor and cover my right eye. Just like at home, there was a chart with some black symbols about two meters in front of me. But, in this case, the symbols were:
You were asked to use your finger and point up, down, left, right, depending on the direction of the hole opening.
In addition, you might find the colorblind test a little difficult if you don’t know Japanese. Remember those old tests? You look at a colored pattern in a book. There should be a letter in a color surrounded by its opposite. In this manner, you can determine if your eyes can detect the differences between two colors; if they can’t, you only see one huge blob of color.
The nurse might have assumed I was colorblind, if I hadn’t told her I wasn’t the best at reading hiragana, the loopy Japanese written language. I could see all the characters perfectly, but just didn’t always know what they were. An educational experience (incidentally, that did prompt me to learn hiragana once and for all).
Total price tag? About 10,000円
Gaijin Ura Hanzai Magazine Incident
Is it any wonder that some Japanese people fear the foreign presence in Japan? I’ve seen my share of hospitality, normality, stares of awe, and some of disregard, but never have I quite encountered those of hatred as I’ve seen online in recent days. Family Mart, a popular convenience store in Japan, has stocked a rather shocking book on its magazine rack. Let’s look at the facts:
January 31st
Family Mart stocks “Gaijin Henzai Ura File”, a book that essentially blames all crime and indecent behavior in Japan on foreigners. Not even exclusively Europeans, Americans, or caucasians – it includes Chinese, Africans, Indians… I don’t even want one percent of what that book says posted on my site – it doesn’t go one sentence without mentioning a racial slur.
Racial slurs in Gaijin Henzai Ura File – in Japanese and English
From accusing black people of raping Japanese girls, to providing bloated statistics of foreign crime in Tokyo, to playing games of hatred like “Catch the Iranian!!”, to showing members of the American military robbing taxi drivers, this book is something you might expect to find in the back allies of Japanese culture or on some racially charged internet site. Instead, we see it being offered to the mainstream public in a widely used store.
February 1st
The public responds. Arudou Debito, a foreign resident of Japan living in Hokkaido with comprehensive knowledge of Japanese law as it pertains to outsiders, posts his encounter with the magazine. Japan Probe follows suit.
February 3rd
Japan Probe calls for a worldwide boycott of Family Mart stores and their affiliates, seeking an official apology, removal of the racist book from their shelves, and assurances of no repeat offenses in the future.
Family Mart, in response to written complaints, relents and states it will remove the magazine “within 7 days.”
February 4th
Debito posts a boycott letter in both Japanese and English to encourage resident gaikokujin to visit Family Mart stores individually and ask for removal of the magazine.
February 5th
Japan Probe reports that Family Mart has agreed to remove all copies of the magazine immediately.
I personally have not seen this magazine in Hiroshima or Fukuoka Family Mart stores, but will keep a copy of Debito’s letter just in case. First of all I’d love to come across a Japanese person reading it casually in Family Mart or on a train and ask them exactly what they think about it.
This story comes on the heels of a recent revelation I had about racism in Japan; it’s unique, to be sure. Of course, there are plenty of people with nothing but pure hatred in their hearts, but I would say a lot of racism in Japan is based on ignorance: people who know so little about another culture that they find you to be more of a joke rather than a menace; something to be pitied or laughed at. Unfortunately, this is still racism.
Adoption in Japan
I’ve run kilometers on end. I work out regularly. I can hold my own in a fight. Adrenaline and I are close friends.
And yet, I recently found myself beyond my natural limits, all in response to the saddened look on a six-year-old girl’s face. Pushed to the point of exhaustion and tired from lifting her up with enthusiasm, shouting like a crazy man, and making her “fly” around a gym for over forty laps.
“もう一回!” (one more time!) she exclaimed, her expression quickly transforming from delight to slight disappointment that I had set her down after another ten minutes of flight. “高い!” (up high!)
“もう一回?”
“もう一回!”
“オーケー,” I said between dry heaves. I mean, how do you say no? Is it even possible to do so without feeling lousy?
The girl in the blue shirt and pink dress (both thankfully lacking an obscene English expression) is Haruka. Officially, Haruka is a “child who requires protection” according to Japanese law: an illegitimate child, an abandoned infant, a child whose parents have died or disappeared, a child whose parents are incapable of providing support, or an abused child (Source).
I don’t know her story, where her parents are, or what her future holds. All I can see in the present is bringing a moment of happiness to her life.
A group of volunteers and I made our way to Aira in Kagoshima prefecture to visit this particular orphanage (though the term isn’t exact) for the annual Christmas party: setting up an xmas tree, decorating the room with crafts, small English lessons, playing ball and running around the gymnasium until some of us (hint, hint) pass out from “fun”.
I first saw her apart from the three or four boys screaming and trying to get a soccer ball into the basketball hoop, sitting alone, legs together, her head between her knees, arms crossed over her head. When she happened to look up to avoid an accidental collision, there was no joy written on her face. No love. No hope. I am by no means an expert, but she had every indication of someone being written off.
Sadly enough, that’s usually the case in Japan (well, many countries) for the children in these centers. Although their quality of life is far from impoverished – school, meals, TV, warm futons, entertainment provided – the chances of their being “rescued” and returned to a caring family are slim to none. “An estimated 65,000 adoptions of unrelated children occur each year in the United States. The official number in Japan is about 600.” (Source)
Extended family ties are strong in Japan, and relatives often care for each other’s children when the need arises. But when that is not possible – for financial or other reasons – many relatives would rather see these children in state homes than adopted by strangers.
Many Japanese view their families as a privileged, almost sacred group. Western families, particularly American ones, are seen by Japanese as careless with that privilege. In their view, American families often start out of wedlock, end in divorce and often accept a stranger’s child as their own through adoption. In Japan, millions of people see these actions as scandalous, or at the least, not to be discussed in public.
Kazuko Yokota, who runs Motherly Network, a private adoption agency, said she believed doctors quietly help broker the adoptions of ”hundreds of children” each year. ”It’s all done in secret,” she said. ”Adoption is not the Japanese way.” As a result, she said, some people go to great lengths – even moving to a place where they are not known, and feigning pregnancies with pillows – to conceal an adoption.
Part of the reason for this is the existence of the koseki (戸籍), or family registry. If you’re a Japanese citizen, you have a koseki. It is the record of records. Family history. Mothers. Fathers. And, all births…
A law enacted in 1988 allowed young adopted children to have their birth family name erased from their koseki and replaced by their adoptive family’s name. Before this, both names were listed, which essentially meant ”adopted” was stamped in bold letters on this important record. The new law was meant to make it easier for families to adopt nonrelatives without fear of stigma.
Such was the case for single Japanese mothers who chose to give their children up for adoption – the names stood on the koseki, and that was seen as more of a stigma than anything else, visible to employers, potential husbands, even friends.
And what of the children of foreign mothers, or fathers? Institutions see no shortage of them; plenty of their parents come over here on short-term work visas and surrender their rights to any offspring when departing. “Halfs” – I don’t particularly like that term, but it is common enough – as half Japanese/half non-Japanese, are even less likely to be adopted, as they couldn’t possibly be passed off as the biological children of parents trying to feign pregnancies, thus avoiding the explanations and possible shunning of the child later on.
Slightly off topic, in cases of foreign fathers and Japanese mothers… in the event children are born outside of wedlock, custody is automatically awarded to the mother. If married and then divorced, custody can only lie with one parent – it is at the discretion of this one that the other is allowed visitation. (Source).
This is major factor behind these international kidnappings in Japan; although a father might be awarded joint custody in another country, Japanese law does not recognize it as such. Even if both live in Japan and have an unspoken agreement on custody, the mother can just as easily pack up and leave without bothering with a forwarding address. Although a court might recognize the rights of one parent to see his child, it is unable to remove that same child from the custody of the other to allow visitation (Source); this is the same mentality we see regarding the UN code against racial discrimination in Japan; Japan has confirmed that it is bound by such a code, yet unable to make such laws to enforce it…
I digress, but it all comes to parental rights: who can adopt, who can give children up for adoption, what children are out there waiting to be adopted…
And it helps to see them up close. Even Haruka, who might have been shifted from institution to institution since birth, is capable of joy when the moment strikes. I didn’t see these children as any different as those walking down the street returning from a junior high school, on their way home to, hopefully, caring parents.
It’s still difficult. To imagine what it’s like without a real home. One of the volunteers is literally in tears as we pull away, bidding farewell to the staff and thanking them for the opportunity to visit. We can escape. We can return to our apartments, Skype our parents, and continue on with our lives. They will wake up, go to school, and return to a place not unlike school, where they will most likely live for the next few years, until reaching 18 or 20.
We saw one day. One atypical day. They live it for years. It’s not horrible, it’s not cruel, but it can’t be what’s best; even a mother shouting and screaming for ten minutes because you forgot to call home is a sign of love. Something that just can’t just duplicated without a home, a family.
More Information
Adoption in Japan: Comparing Policies for Children in Need, by Peter Hayes and Toshie Habu
Baby Hatch in Kumamoto
Hiroshima Oyako (parenting blog in Hiroshima)
Types of Adoption in Japan
Children’s Rights Council of Japan
Health Insurance and Pension Information
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Every person regardless of nationality over twenty years old residing in Japan is required to be enrolled in a:
1. Health insurance program
2. Pension fund program
Employee’s Health Insurance (健康保険)
kenkou hoken
Back to basics: the insurance system in Japan, depending on the size of the company in which you’re currently employed, falls into two categories. If you’re with a company that employs more than five people, you must pay under the Social Insurance system (shakai hoken, 社会保険).
Under the Social Insurance system, we have:
1. Employee health insurance (kenkou hoken, 健康保険)
2. Employee pension (kousei nenkin, 厚生年金)
Social Insurance, health insurance
Social Insurance, pension
Eikaiwa employees and those teaching English in Japan
Be careful what you sign up for. I know if you’re first coming to Japan, you’re busy settling things at home, getting the visa paperwork taken care of, and learning about the job and country, but pay attention to the fine print.
A few years ago, AEON gave its employees an option: continue working 29.5 hours/week and accept the fact you have minimal emergency insurance, or convert your contract to a 36-hour working week and pay into the shakai hoken health insurance and pension system.
I came into AEON and Japan in complete ignorance about the health care system. Complete – unknowing, uncaring. After all, I’m immortal, aren’t I?
For some years, AEON had its employees working 29.5 hours a week. Why not round up to thirty? Because they didn’t want the extra charges of paying into the employee insurance system:
“According to the Health Insurance Law and Employees’ Pension Law, companies must enroll all workers who work more than 30 hours a week and who have been in Japan for over two months in both the health insurance and pension systems. No exceptions.”
Under the shakai hoken, you pay 50% of all premium costs monthly, and the company pays the other half. By keeping employees on a reduced workweek, AEON was sneakily avoiding its responsibilities to both the government, and the working foreign “teachers”. As I mentioned in my “The Truth About AEON” posts, management was willfully ignorant of just how corporate headquarters chose to circumvent the law:
…working hours. 29.5. Why? Because, according to Japanese law, if you work over 30 hours you are a full-time worker, and entitled to full-time benefits (and on the reverse, different taxes, of course). Still, management just stared me in the face when I explained this to them.
“According to Japanese law, I am a part-time worker.”
“No, you are not. You are full time teacher.”
“No, not according to the law.”
“Why are you saying this?”Because it’s important for all parties to understand that. No amount of insistence or stubbornness will change that fact. And if I am a part time worker, I should not be coerced into working extra hours unless you want to face the consequences of employing me as a full-time worker.
Other part-time workers in Japan have had it much worse; everyone knows unpaid overtime is as natural as having black hair in Japan. Some were working 40-50 hour/weeks while still under a part-time contract. No health insurance. Part-time wages. No assistance for childcare. There have been some attempts to improve this, but I believe it’s still rather rampant.
Let’s Japan.org discussion of this issue
What does the kenkou hoken cover?
- 70% of all medical costs
- 60% of salary from lost days (beginning from the third day absent from work due to injury or sickness)
- High-cost medical expenses cannot exceed about 80,100 yen/month
- 0% interest loans are available
Social Pension (kousei nenkin, 厚生年金)
If you’re not planning to stay in Japan long-term:
dattai ichijikin, 大体一時金
You can choose to withdrawal a portion of the pension you have paid into, proportional to the amount of time you have spent in Japan (see details here, under “Lump-sum Withdrawal Payments”). To qualify, you must have lived in Japan and paid into the pension for at least six months; the return must be filed within two years of your departure from Japan. The application form (only applicable for foreign residents of Japan) is here.
“You can file for a refund of up to 90% of your contributions provided you’ve been contributing for over 6 months but stay in Japan for less than 3 years.”
The refund is calculated by taking your average monthly remuneration over the time you paid into the pension and multiplying it by the benefit rate:
Benefit = Average standard remuneration (monthly salary bracket) x Benefit multiplier
If your final month paid in the employee pension fund is between September 2007 and August 2008, and you have lived in Japan for (benefit multipliers):
6-11 months – multiply by 0.4
12-17 months – multiply by 0.9
18-23 months – multiply by 1.3
24-29 months – multiply by 1.8
30-35 months – multiply by 2.2
36+ months – multiply by 2.6
A refundable 20% withholding tax will be deducted from this total. The tax can be recovered however, minus a fee, by signing up with a tax agent before you leave Japan.
Health and Pension in Japan
City of Tochigi Guide to Social Insurance
National Health Insurance (国民健康保険)
kokumin kenkou hoken
If you are self-employed, in a company that employs fewer than five people, or in a different situation entirely (unemployed, student, retired, long-term traveler, etc) you might consider signing up for the National Health Insurance system of Japan; there are alternatives – see “Insurance through Private Companies” below.
Under the National Insurance system, we have:
1. National health insurance (kokumin kenkou hoken, 国民健康保険)
2. National pension (kokumin nenkin, 国民年金)
National health insurance
National pension
What does the kokumin kenkou hoken cover?
Practically the same benefits as the shakai hoken system, with the exception of:
- Not being paid for lost time at work (if employed at a company)
- A smaller cut-off for high monthly medical expenses (i.e. you pay more)
However…
Unlike the shakai hoken, the National Insurance System premiums (monthly payments) are based on your previous year’s salary.
Thus, if you are new to Japan, the government does not consider your employment status from the previous year, and you pay the monthly minimum. If you choose to stay a second year, you may notice your paychecks will be substantial smaller, due to the national system now having some data on your salary.
If you stay in Japan without paying into any insurance system, and then try to register with the kokumin kenkou hoken, you will have to pay retroactive from the moment you entered the country. It is illegal to be a resident of Japan without having some kind of health insurance and a pension.
If you’re not planning to stay in Japan long-term
The same procedure can be used to get a lump-sum withdrawal of the money you’ve paid into the pension (dattai ichijikin, 大体一時金). However, it’s calculated differently:
Time in Japan
6 – 12 months, ¥41,580
12 – 18 months, ¥83,160
18 – 24 months, ¥124,740
24 – 30 months, ¥166,320
30 – 36 months, ¥207,900
36 months or more, ¥249,480
No withholding tax is taken from the national pension withdrawal.
“The National Health Insurance is managed by ward offices in big cities and by small town government offices. Although it is a “national” insurance, each municipality is receiving funds and paying the claims. They are like a group of small insurance companies. They are all in the red. Some are just redder than others. As a result, insurance rates vary from one city to another. Even Japanese feel cheated by this disparity.”
Source: http://www.nationalhealthinsurance.jp/nhi.asp
This website goes on to point out how easy it is to be trapped in the National Insurance system; if you’re leaving the country, it’s generally not a problem, but once you’re signed up, it can be difficult to switch to a private company. Some have tried moving without forwarding their address to the insurance, leaving Japan on paper, or just presenting the proper paperwork and taking their chances:
Source: http://www.nationalhealthinsurance.jp/getoff-nhi.asp
Labor Insurnace (Worker’s Comp, 労災保険)
rousai hoken
This is a compulsory insurance that employers are required to provide. It covers injury, sickness, disability, and death related to work, whether at the company or while commuting.
What does the rousai hoken cover?
- 70% of most medical costs (and 100% of some)
- 60% salary paid for lost days (beginning from the third day absent from work due to injury or illness)
- Disability, graded according to the injury
Labor Insurance Information (English)
Labor Insurance Information (日本語)
Insurance through Private Companies
Although employees are required to register with the shakai hoken as per their working contracts, those working freelance or at smaller companies do not necessarily have to pay into the National Health Insurance plan (kokumin kenkou hoken).
- If you are currently paying into the shakai hoken, you can choose to supplement this (and avoiding paying the 30% in the event of injury) by signing with a private company
- If you aren’t signed up for the National Health Insurance plan yet (supposed to do it as soon as you receive your gaijin card), it is possible to sign on to a private company, present proof of insurance to the government, and they should stop hounding you to enroll in their plan. However, once you are in the national insurance system, I’ve been told it can be rather difficult to escape; read some of the controversy at National Health Insurance Watch.
One of the private insurance companies serving Japan is AFLAC
Particular Companies
- AEON employees are all now on the Social Insurance system (shakai hoken, 社会保険)
- Teachers with the JET Programme are on the Social Insurance system
Useful Japanese
療養費支給申請書,
ryouyouhi shikyuu shinseisho
Application for Medical Expenses
諸病手当金支給申請書
shobyou teatekin shikyuu shinseisho
Application for Sickness and Injury Allowance
傷病名
Name of injury or sickness
第三者行為によるものですか?
Was the injury the result of someone else’s actions?
発病又は負傷の原因及びその経過
Describe the circumstances that led to the injury or disease (when, where, why)
診療又は手当受をけた医師、歯科医師その他のものの住所氏名
Name and address of treating physician
診療を受けた期間
Period of receiving medical care
病院等で療養を受けた期間及び入院
Period of hospitalization and medical care
通院
Commuting to hospital
入院
Hospitalized
期間に受けた療養に対し病院等で支払った額
During your time in the hospital, how much did you pay for medical care?
Useful Websites
Social Insurance Agency
- The official website, listing all details of employee insurance and national insurance, and links to some of the paperwork (日本語で)
National Health Insurance Watch
- Controversy surrounding the National Health Insurance system of Japan; some good examples
The General Union Interac Branch
- A review of your rights in Japan concerning health insurance and pensions
City of Yokohama Services
- Detailed information about the National Health Insurance Plan
Living Guide
- Very useful guide for all situations, including medical and insurance issues, in all languages
Income Tax Guide for Foreigners
- The official website of the National Tax Agency. Includes information for foreigners in Japan, foreigners working in Japan, and those leaving Japan.
Legal Counseling for Foreigners
- List of legal counseling services for foreigners in Japan; on the phone and in person, pro-bono and charged
AMDA International Medical Information Center
- A good page covering the general procedures for medical care; there are links to insurance information, but the regulations are a little dated
In Case of an Emergency
Call 119 for an ambulance. Don’t forget to take your Health Insurance Certificate with you.
Samurai Parade on Miyajima
The day of the Vernal Equinox also happens to be a national holiday in Japan. The result? No work, and the chance to march in a Samurai parade in front of Itsukushima Shrine (厳島) on Miyajima.
It was a beautiful day for a parade, and a great chance for me to participate. Although I must admit, as the ferry neared the shores of the great island, that the entire “Samurai perception” is one stereotype foreigners have a hard time overcoming about Japan, and I was determined to enjoy this parade just for the fun of it. No more, no less. Let things fall as they might.
An ad on GetHiroshima had alerted me to the idea – ¥10,000 wired from my bank account to the Miyajima Sightseeing Association, and the armor is yours.
Let’s go over the procedure, shall we? Just like armor you’d see on a Medieval knight, Samurai armor is equally as complex. A yukata, covered with shin guards, three cloth belts, inner clothing, outer armor, helmet, flag, sword, dagger, sandals (not a chance they had a pair my size), arm coverings.
On this occasion, the most ridiculous part to me was having seven different ladies attempt to make my face look Japanese. If Sean Connery couldn’t pull it off, I know I couldn’t. It’s a good thing the helmet covered most of my eyebrow markings; I looked pretty ridiculous.
Still, there’s something to be said for the weight of any armor – it makes you feel stronger, more powerful, and you feel a little emptier once you have to lose it. Whether this is imbedded in my mind because I met my first love while wearing armor, I’ll never know, but the world seems more polarized when you start thinking about warrior mentality: love, life, death, honor, virtue, at the hilt of a sword and the blow of a fist.
I didn’t attract any more attention than I usually do; the nail that sticks out… and I do stick out as a foreigner. During the parade, people asked if they could have their pictures taken with me; this isn’t a far cry from my typical traveling experiences; the armor is not the only thing separating me from having my picture taken by everyone in Japan.
However, this was a good experience. Despite the calls of “Gaijin samurai! Mite! Mite!” (yes, that really happened), I enjoyed showing off for the kodomo; I’ll never forget the look of amazement on their faces when I drew my sword and struck a pose… priceless.
Finishing the parade, I was treated to a sip of sake and an interview with the Sankei Shimbun. For those of you still learning the Nihongo: “shimbun”, 新聞, is newspaper. This was printed in their March 22nd, 2007 issue:
参列した米国人の英会話学校講師、ターナーライトさん（24)は「かぶとやよろいを身につけて、強くなったように感じる」と興奮気味。
Very loosely translated, we find:
“In attendance was an American English language school lecturer, Turner Wright (age 24), who felt very excited: ‘Wearing the armor made me feel very powerful, very strong.’”
My thanks to Rikai for help with the translation – a great website for looking up the definition to Kanji, if you happen to have the digital text. I realize that my translation wasn’t perfect, but it’s closer to my original interview.
Get Hiroshima also posted their own interview about me in their people section.
Yakushima: Among the Yakisugi
Normally at the beginning of these little travel pieces I start out very poetic, praising the unique features of the area, and highlighting how much I benefited from the experience. Although I did enjoy staying on Yakushima, the hiking, the main feature, was subpar by my standards. Oh, don’t get me wrong – the sights, the sounds, and the smells were all what I expected, and all quite extraordinary. But the quality of the journey, the terrain, and following the footsteps of the men of old, were not so enjoyable.
Yakushima (屋久島), as you may know, is one of the major islands off the southern coast of Japan. Just like Tanegashima (種子島), it’s less than two hours from Kagoshima Port by ferry. And it’s unique. As unique as any other island out here. Where Tanegashima is sandy and tropical, Yakushima is very much a wilderness, with rocky shores and trees thousands of years old.
I’m just recently starting to discover the wonders of these southern islands; there are three directly to the south, the Mishima group (Takeshima, Ioujima, Kuroshima), and a collection south of Yakushima, the Tokara islands (one that is supposedly the subject of the story Treasure Island).
But I digress, more on Yakushima…
The Cities
Miyanoura (宮之浦)
Miyanoura is the major entry/exit point to Yakushima. Although ferries do dock at Anbo (安房, to the south) as well, most traffic is in and out of this little coastal town. I’d highly recommend this as your major base of operations, for hiking or sightseeing – おみやげ stores (gifts), rental equipment (everything from tents to hiking boots), restaurants, grocery stores, and most of the tourist industry resides in Miyanoura.
If you’re in the mood, I believe there is a kayak rental store that allows you to go upstream towards the mountains; once you’re clear of the semi-urban area, this would be quite a sight.
Onoaida (尾之間)
Onoaida, just a little over an hour by bus or car from Miyanoura, is another good base of operations. Be warned, however – there’s not a lot here. Hotels in abundance, and a quality onsen, but restaurants, convenience stores, and shops of any kind are lacking. There is one supermarket, a bakery (ペイタ, Peita, very good), and a pachinko parlor, if you can believe it. If you do stay in this area, bring all the supplies you need from Miyanoura, and order meals at the hotel.
Jyoumon Sugi (縄文杉)
Jyoumon Sugi is a cedar tree located very far inland on the bigger hiking trails in Yakushima. The oldest cedar tree in Yakushima, Japan, and the world, estimated to be between 2,170 and 7,200 years old.
Although this certainly is worth seeing if you’re on the island, don’t expect fireworks; after all, it is just a tree.
This was one of the major qualms I had with the the trail leading here. If you’re traveling from Arakawa, you’re hiking on railroad tracks for the better part of two hours, and then on carefully placed wooden platforms leading up the mountain. While there’s no doubt that these precautions are necessary given the tourists on Yakushima (including children), they take away from the journey. I want nothing but hiking boots owning the wilderness, my hands grasping for branches as they guide my body across a difficult terrain… the spiderwebs are the same, though – right in your face at an inopportune moment.
Height: 25.3 m
Circumference: 16.4 m
Along the trail, be sure to notice…
Wilson’s Stump (the opening shaped like a heart if you get the angle just right)
There used to be a small town, complete with a middle school, in the middle of the mountain.
Access
From the Yakushima Youth Hostel in Hirauchi, there is a 5:02 AM bus (stops at major areas in Onoaida and Anbo) that takes you right to the Arakawa trailhead – one of the highest points accessible by car. From there, it’s about a 3-4 hour hike to the Jyoumon Sugi. If you have enough time, there is a small peak about another hour away. The first bus going back leaves at 3 PM, the last at 5 PM.
Miyanouradake (宮之浦岳)
Miyanouradake is the highest point on Yakushima island, reaching 1936 m. Unfortunately, there’s no possible way to reach the peak and come back safely before dark in a single day; if you want to see all of Yakushima, plan on camping out.
Access
All trails lead to Miyanouradake. It’s almost the exact center of the island.
Onsen
Onoaida Onsen (尾之間温泉)
A small little onsen just off the highway, about a 15 minute walk from Onoaida. It also happens to be at the base of one of the popular trailheads. Not a bad starting point if you’re intent from beginning at the base of the mountain, but I prefer taking a bus past the “boring” areas.
They have towels, but no soap. The bath is very hot, a little sulfurous, and more than relaxing. Perfect for coming off the trail at day’s end.
Ohura no Yu (おふらの湯)
Don’t even bother. Coming from Isso Beach, I was expecting a semi-luxurious onsen set in the wilderness, with full facilities. Instead, I find a run-down bathhouse a 20 minute walk from the highway in what could never be construed as a romantic area. The bath is small, no soap is provided, and the water doesn’t feel even remotely onsen-like.
Hirauchi Kaichu Onsen
A great natural outdoor onsen on the rocky shore. Unfortunately it’s only full as long as the tide is in (midnight and noon when I was there in August).
Beaches
Isso Beach and Ohura Cape
There is another beach near Nagata on the western side of Yakushima. During the month of August, you might be able to spot sea turtles coming ashore.
Access
Take the northbound bus about 25 minutes from Miyanoura. The bus stops right in front of the beach; watch for signs.
Accommodation
Yakushima Portside Youth Hostel
Probably your cheapest option in the Miyanoura area. It’s an easy walk from the port, and as central as can be.
¥3800/night, meals not available
Website
Access
Walk out of the port and turn left. You’ll see signs.
Yakushima Youth Hostel
The best cheapest lodging option. This hostel is just west of Onoaida in the middle of nowhere (a town called Hirauchi, 平内); I wouldn’t recommend trying to reach it on foot. Once you do reach the main building, however, I think you’ll be pleasantly surprised: rental cars, rental bicycles, internet access, laundry machines, a nice dining area, and plenty of room. It’s well-maintained (almost new, I think). If you don’t want to order meals at the hostel, there is a decent izakaya within walking distance that opens at 6 PM.
¥3540/night, meals extra
Website
Access
Take a bus south from Miyanoura or Anbo to the Hirauchi Iriguchi stop.
JR Hotel
A nicely placed hotel close to the shore in Onoaida. This hotel is modern, expensive, and boasts its own onsen.
Website
Iwasaki Hotel
A few minutes away from Onoaida closer to the base of the mountain. Probably the most luxurious choice in Yakushima (certainly the most expensive, anyway). This hotel is on the early morning bus route, and gives you a great view of the shoreline.
Website
Camping
Camping is a popular option on Yakushima, as most of the sights are more than a day’s hike away, and you have to plan very carefully if you want to catch the bus.
Although you can probably pitch a tent anywhere without consequence, the authorities recommend setting up at designated mountain huts along the trail. There are no restaurants, vending machines, or running water faucets as far as I know.
Access to Island
Cosmo Line operates three Rocket jetfoils.
￥5,000 one-way, ￥9,000 roundtrip
Kagoshima (鹿児島) –> Yakushima (屋久島)
09:00 –> 10:50
12:20 –> 13:10
16:00 –> 18:45 (stops at Tanegashima)
Yakushima (屋久島) –> Kagoshima (鹿児島)
07:20 –> 10:05 (stops at Tanegashima)
12:00 –> 13:50
15:50 –> 18:30 (stops at Tanegashima)
A notice: there are no vending machines on this ship and it moves too quickly to allow you to step outside.
Toppy operates its own jetfoils, albeit at a slightly higher price than Cosmo Line.
￥7,000 one-way, ￥12,600 roundtrip
Kagoshima (鹿児島) –> Yakushima (屋久島)
07:30 –> 10:30 (stops at Tanegashima)
07:40 –> 09:45 (stops at Ibusuki)
10:20 –> 13:00 (stops at Tanegashima, arrives at Anbo port)
13:10 –> 14:55
15:50 –> 18:30 (stops at Tanegashima, arrives at Anbo port)
Yakushima (屋久島) –> Kagoshima (鹿児島)
07:00 –> 09:35 (departs from Anbo port, stops at Tanegashima)
10:00 –> 12:40 (stops at Tanegashima)
10:45 –> 12:30
13:40 –> 15:35 (departs from Anbo port)
16:20 –> 19:15 (stops at Tanegashima, Ibusuki)
Other Observations
- Be wary of centipedes (gejigeji, 蚰蜒); they may not be fatal, but could put parts of you out of commission.
- The center of Yakushima is almost like a basin for catching clouds; even in the non-rainy seasons, you might find yourself in the midst of a rainforest.
Tanegashima: Surfs Up
I’m sitting in the waiting room at the jetfoil port on Tanegashima (種子島). All I can think about is “had we but world enough, and time.” Coming to small islands like this one was a major appeal when deciding between Kagoshima and Tokyo – I’d enjoy it even more if I were visiting an island small enough to navigate in a day, to walk from shore to shore on a nearly deserted piece of land (incidentally, I will be doing that in the near future on Ioujima, population 120, I believe).
Surfing
Tanegashima is rich in culture and history, but the major appeal for tourists by far would have to be its waves. Surfing the clear waters overlooking the sandy beaches. During the summer, I guarantee you can not go outside without at least catching a glimpse of a surfer on his way to catch the hide tide.
There are more beaches than I could count in three short days. If you’re staying near Nishinoomote City (西之表), northernmost city and major jetfoil port), there are two a 20-minute bus or car ride away.
Kanahama, to the south, is a great beach for catching the sunset. Although it’s right alongside the highway, the crashing waves overcome any sounds those primitive vehicles might make. If you are surfing or swimming, though, be on the lookout – parts of this beach are rather rocky and dangerous. There’s a perfectly clear section near the stone steps, but the better waves seem to be crashing against the rocks.
Access
From Nishinoomote (西之表), take the southbound bus for the Tanegashima Space Center (TNSC, 種子島宇宙センタ). Stop at Takamatsu (高松) after about 20-25 minutes. Or, you could walk it in about 75 minutes – not recommended with a surfboard.
Speaking of which, Tanegashima is home to the Japan Aerospace Exploration Agency (JAXA) running the TNSC, located on the south side of the island. I swear, if I had known I could have been working at this branch, I would have pursued my degreed career a little further. Let me make this simple, because it’s not rocket science: this is paradise. Beautiful beaches, tall rock faces, huge waves (on one side, the other is good for families), snow cones, and if you happen to look back towards land, there’s a beautifully tended garden for your feasting eyes, though one that happens to have full-sized rockets scattered about.
If you do want to stay indoors, be sure to take advantage of the space museum (at the bus stop, free), or trek over to the control center (Mon-Fri, 8-5). Although you’re not allowed near any of the launch sites, there are two observation points giving you a clear view. Check the press releases for the launch schedule.
Access
Take the southbound bus all the way to the end, about 100-120 minutes from Nishinoomote. If you’re not staying in the area, be sure to catch the earliest bus to give you as much time as possible; the last bus going back leaves at 3:22 PM. Buses run about every two hours, beginning around 7 AM on weekdays and 9 AM on Saturday and Sunday.
The best beach for sightseeing and relaxing would have to be Urata on the northern coast. Unfortunately, I don’t believe any buses go there.
More info on the beaches of Tanegashima
History
Tanegashima was the first place in Japan that was introduced to firearms. On August 25th, 1543, Portuguese merchants sold what was essentially a prototype to the Japanese on the small southern island. This design was soon replicated by Japanese metal workers and produced en masse.
When I first arrived in port, you could say I was a little startled to hear the sounds of rifles being fired less than 100 meters away. To commemorate the arrival of firearms in Japan (although I don’t exactly feel the introduction of machines of death is worthy), apparently men dressed as Portuguese soldiers reenact the demonstration of the weapons to the Japanese Lord on Tanegashima. There is also a “fire arm festival” held every August; this year, August 19th.
To see replicas and antique guns from the 16th century, be sure to visit the Tanegashima Development Center in Nishinoomote; only 420 yen to enter.
Accommodation
Miharuso
This ryokan may be a little old, but it’s very close to the port and a good northern location. There’s a rental store with surfboards just a minute’s walk east. Be sure to try the fried flying fish for dinner – a local specialty, as the fish only live on the island just west of Tanegashima.
¥6300/night with meals
Website
Tanegashima Iwasaki Hotel
This hotel is way too expensive, and well worth it. Walking distance from the space center, and with its own private beach. Perfect.
Access to Island
Naturally, there are only three ways to get here – airplane, jetfoil, or swimming.
Cosmo Line operates three Rocket jetfoils.
￥4,700 one-way, ￥8,100 roundtrip
Kagoshima (鹿児島) –> Tanegashima (種子島)
08:00 –> 09:35
12:00 –> 13:35
16:00 –> 17:35
17:00 –> 18:35
Tanegashima (種子島) –> Kagoshima (鹿児島)
07:00 –> 08:35
08:30 –> 10:05
10:10 –> 11:45
14:30 –> 16:05
16:55 –> 18:30
A notice: there are no vending machines on this ship and it moves too quickly to allow you to step outside.
Toppy operates its own jetfoils, albeit at a slightly higher price than Cosmo Line.
￥5,100 one-way, ￥9,600 roundtrip
Kagoshima (鹿児島) –> Tanegashima (種子島)
07:30 –> 09:05
07:40 –> 10:50
10:20 –> 11:55
13:00 –> 14:35
15:50 –> 17:25
16:50 –> 18:25
Tanegashima (種子島) –> Kagoshima (鹿児島)
07:10 –> 08:45
08:00 –> 09:35
09:45 –> 12:30
11:05 –> 12:40
15:30 –> 17:05
17:20 –> 19:15
Other Observations
- There are stray cats everywhere on this island. Reminded me a lot of being in Rome.
- In addition to cats, I don’t think I’ve heard the crickets in more abundance. Maybe, being on an island, there are fewer spiders than on the mainland, and the insect population can thrive.
Umbrella Burning Festival
Soga Don no Kasayaki (そがどんの傘焼き)
Umbrella Burning Matsuri in Kagoshima. Held at nightfall in front of the Museum of the Meiji Restoration on the fourth Saturday in July.
